The Rise of Quality Mutton
8th December 2016
In Victorian times, mutton was more popular than beef. It was eaten across all levels of society, from palaces to cottages. Its qualities were something to discuss with passion, whether its breed, age or the landscape it was reared in. As John Galsworthy wrote in his Forsyte Saga in 1906 “[a saddle of mutton] is nourishing and tasty; the sort of thing a man remembers eating. It has a past and a future, like a deposit paid into a bank; and it is something that can be argued about.”
We are now seeing real signs of the increasing popularity of quality mutton in the UK once again. Whether it is appearing on a menu of a village pub, being sold by local butchers or farm shops, or highlighted at grand dinners, more people are trying it and enjoying the experience. The Master Chefs of Great Britain’s Annual Lunch was held at Sheraton Park Lane hotel in London recently and featured Mutton Cannelloni and Smoked Mutton Crumble. Sue McGeever, who organised the meal was very enthusiastic about using mutton “It was wonderful to bring mutton to the table at The Master Chefs of Great Britain annual lunch and our guests really enjoyed the flavour and textures of the dish which combined shoulder of mutton with smoked mutton. It would be good to see mutton being served in more restaurants around the UK.”
So, the resurgence of quality mutton looks set to accelerate, but will it have the supplies to cope? The problem is that simply grabbing a few cull ewes which would otherwise go to market, and trying to pass them off as a quality product is not the answer. Indeed, it could do serious damage. If the market is to continue growing, ‘quality’ must be the watchword. Only good quality ewes should be selected for the purpose, and actively finished with a good covering of both muscle and a modest fat content – a 2 or 3L classification. Hanging is essential, and 10 days is generally considered a minimum.
It’s then a question of finding a market. Some producers set up to sell to the consumer, but a wholesale trade can offer a potentially larger market. Approaching local restaurants and butchers can start things off. However, as with all meats, carcass balance is one secret to success, and selling the whole animal is essential. A large restaurant order of just one cut can cause as much of a problem as selling nothing.
The NSA Mutton initiative ‘Make More of Mutton’ (www.NSAMutton.org.uk) has resources which can help.
Bob Kennard
mutton@nsamutton.org.uk
